A Basic Guide on How to Dye Leather

Dyeing leather is tricky (Yes. I’m still working on it.) Getting a nice even coat of dye on leather takes not only the know how, but also the skill that comes with lots and lots of practice. After trying out a number of different ways to dye leather, this is the one that I’m most happy with.

Step 1: Prep the Leather

This is what your hands will look like if you don't put on gloves. People will look at your weird. 

This is what your hands will look like if you don't put on gloves. People will look at your weird. 

Put on Gloves 

Sure this is obvious, but I cannot tell you the number of times I thought "I’ll just be careful and won’t get anything on my hands.” That has not once worked out for me. Don’t be dumb like me. Wear gloves.

This is what it will look like if you put gloves on. This is better.

This is what it will look like if you put gloves on. This is better.

Ventilate the Room

This isn’t an insta-death situation, but the fumes of the oil dyes are seriously not good for your to be hanging out in for a few hours. So figure out some way to ventilate the room. A fan in the window does the trick.

Select the Correct Leather.

You can dye any un-dyed veg tanned leather. In fact, you can probably dye pre-dyed veg tanned leather… but why? (serious though, if you do this, just be aware that there are waxes on top of finished leathers that will not allow the dye to penetrate the leather well). That said, there’s not a ton of considerations when it comes to choosing leather. Just know, that if you’re using 100% top grain leather, you’re going to see all the marks and different shades on the leather. 100% top grain leather is great for quality, but it does mean that the top layer (and imperfections that come with) have not be removed. This is going to really show up when you use a dyeing using this method (instead of the method most industrial places uses, which involves submerging the leather completely in dye. This takes a lot of dye, but is more penetrating and offers a smoother finish). So, if you use an inexpensive piece of leather, that has more marks and inconsistencies, just know that it is going to show up no matter how great you are at dying.

From left to right: Water Based Dye, Oil Based Dye, Dye Reducer, and finally Tan-Kote Leather Finish

Wipe Down the Leather

If your leather has been in your shop for more than a day, there’s a good chance crap has accumulated on it (especially if you’re sanding your edges). Wiping it down quickly with a dry rag prior to dying will help create an even coat. Some suggest using a deglazer on the leather, which will remove any oils that have gotten on the leather from things like your hands. I’ve not used this before, but I’ve seen it recommended many times. Fiebings offers this.

Loading up the sponge with dye.

Cut Your Dyes

I use Fiebings Pro Dye when using an oil based dye and Tandy's Eco-Flo for water based dyes. I like the Pro Dye from Fiebings. Out of everything I’ve used it’s given the most consistent coat, but both work well. I do really suggest cutting it though. If it's an oil dye, Fiebings sells a dye reducer, and if it's a water based dye, you just add water. The more coats you do, the smoother your dye is going to look. So if you achieve the color you want on your first pass of dye, you won’t be able to apply more dye to help even out dye. Instead, you’ll get a very marbled look… which is okay if that’s what you’re going for. As a side note, doing multiple passes of water based dyes will eventually dry out your leather. When you are done dying with water based dyes, it's best to apply some Neatsfoot Oil to put oils back into the leather. Okay, now on to the actually dying process. 

Step 2: Apply a Base Coat in Circles

I always do the first coat in a circular motion. Notice how I start to squeeze the sponge to release more dye as it dries out. 

This is easily the most important coat. First you’ll dip your cloth or sponge into the dye. Now rub it into the dye in circular motion until the leather is covered with dye. Then allow to dry.

Here’s a few things I’ve learned along the way to applying this coat consistently.

  1. When you first set your cloth or sponge onto the leather it is going to be loaded up with dye, and if apply pressure when you first set it onto the leather that one spot is then going to be loaded up with dye. When you first start apply little to no pressure, as you keep going and less dye is being released from the cloth/sponge begin applying more pressure to release an equal amount of dye as before.
  2. When the dye starts getting spotty, reload the cloth/sponge with dye. Basically when the area you just passed over isn’t completely covered in dye, it’s time to get some more.
  3. Overlap a half at a time. As your dyeing in these circles I usually overlap 1/2 of the previous circle with the new circle. 1/2 isn’t some magic number, it’s just what I do. Whatever you do, make sure you’re consistently doing it with each circle you make.
  4. Don’t shy away from the edges. Make sure you dye the leather on something you don’t mind getting dye on, because you should be dyeing beyond the edge of the leather. If you treat the edge of the leather like the end of where you should dye, you’ll approach it timidly and the edges will look less dyed than the rest of the project.

Second and third coats are applied diagonally. Make sure to go beyond the edge, as is shown in this gif. 

STEP 3: Apply a Second Coat Diagonally to the Right

I do this one in back and forth diagonals. Then allow to dry.

STEP 4: Apply a Second Coat Diagonally to the Left

I do this one in back and forth diagonals as well, but in the other direction. This way, between the 3 coats, the grain has been hit from every direction and there should be un-dyed part of the project.

Buffing the finish with a cloth once it has dried.

STEP 5: Apply a Finish and Buff

Once this final coat has dried, you need to put a finish on the leather. If you decided to skip this step, whoever is using the item you made will end up with dye on their clothes. This is bad, so use a finish. I use Fibbing’s Tan Kote, which can be purchases as either a gloss of matte finish. This can be applied in one coat, and I just work it into the leather using the same circular motion from before. Once you’ve worked it in evenly, leave it alone and let it dry. Touching it at all during the drying process will ruin the finish. After the finish has had time to dry, buff it with cotton cloth.

Dying and finishing process complete!

At this point your project should be dyed and ready to go. Hopefully your got a beautiful and completely smooth finish. If you did not however, don't worry, with practice we'll get there. P.S. I swear this isn't a paid advertisement for Fiebings, I just really like their dyes, hah.

DIY Padded Binder Clips

Binder clips are a great way to keep your edges of your projects firmly pressed together while the glue dries. In fact it’s imperative if you’re wanting your edges to look good after the burnishing process. The problem is that sometimes binder clips leave an unwanted impression on the leather (especially if it’s a firmer leather). No need to sweat it though, there’s an easy fix:

What you’ll need:

Binder Clips

http://www.amazon.com/Medium-Binder-Clips-Steel-Silver/dp/B00B9H8FK0/ref=sr_1_6?s=office-products&ie=UTF8&qid=1463683164&sr=1-6&keywords=binder+clips

Contact Cement

https://www.amazon.com/107-3-Ounce-Weldwood-Contact-Cement/dp/B000M2SKNU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1471627101&sr=8-1&keywords=contact+cement

Leather

(If you’re not sure where to get that, check out this part of the beginners guide).

1. You’ll need to cut two 5/8” x 1” squares for every binder clip you want to pad. I’m going to be making ten, so I’ll be cutting out twenty squares from some scrap leather I have laying around.

The leather I am using is 5oz. 8oz is absolutely too thick for something like this, but you could use anything between 3-5oz and it would still work well.

2. Now it's time to wet form the pieces of leather. Wet forming lets you shape the leather how ever you want and it's a super easy process. To do so, I soaked each of the pieces in a bowl of water. Once soaked through, I used a binder clip to bend it in half and set it aside to dry. Once the piece dried I removed the binder clip and the leather stays in this bent position. I wet form like this so the leather doesn't pull away from the clip once it's glued.

3. After wet forming each piece, I glued the back of the squares and placed them aside to dry. I then glued the binder clips and set them aside as well. This is how contact cement works: you glue two pieces separately, allow to dry, and then place together and apply pressure.

4. Once the glue had dried on both the binder clips and the leather pads, I placed two pieces of leather the around the lip of the binder clip, with an equal amount of leather on either side. I then used two other binder clips to hold the leather pieces in place.

After the glue had time to adhere, they're ready to go. Like I said, an easy fix. I’ve yet to find something more simple, quick, or easy as this solution, but I know they might be out there. If you have a different way to keep your edges together as the glue dries, it’d be great to have you share it with me in the comments below.

Step 1

Step 2

Step 3

Step 3

Step 4

Done!

A Basic Guide to Gluing

Gluing is something that you'll do in almost every project. And taking three minutes to evaluate how you're gluing will drastically improve the quality of your edges. I'm using Seiwa Leathercraft Glue in this guide, but any glue cement should work. Here's three things to make sure that you're doing during the gluing process:

1. Use Wax Paper

I can't tell you how long I went without using wax paper when gluing... and I have no idea why. It's cheap, takes almost no time to prepare, and keeps the glue from being where it shouldn't be.

There's really only two things you need to make sure to do when using wax paper. First, always use the flat side of the wax paper for a straight line. This probably goes without saying, but, for awhile, I would make sure to cut the ends straight when the wax paper already has perfectly straight edges on two sides.

The other thing you'll want to keep in mind is to set the paper back to where your stitching will be. If you set it back further, you'll have a smaller opening than you planned for. In some situations this may not be a problem, but in complex projects, especially projects with linings, this can create a problem.

2. Glue All the Way to the Edge

I use a paintbrush when gluing because it allows me to apply a thin and even coat on the leather. Whatever you use, make sure you apply the glue all the way to the edge. You can see the difference between a sloppy application and a smooth one in this picture. If you do not glue all the way to the edge, your edges will start to come apart during the burnishing process. Also make sure that you're only applying a thin layer. It's inevitable that glue will seep out as you press the edges together, but you want to keep that to a minimum.

3. Apply a lot of Pressure

After carefully lining up my edges, I generally hammer along the entire edge to make sure it's pressed together well. Just make sure the leather you're using is supple enough that the hammer won't leave an impression. For bigger projects and longer edges, I'll use binder clips along the entire edge while the glue is drying. Binder clips will leave an impression more often than a hammer does, so make sure to test them out on a scrap piece of leather first.

You can get around this problem all together if you make padded binder clips. They are extremely easy to make, check out how to make them here.

Neat gluing goes a surprisingly long way in improving your edges. And now that you're edges are properly prepped, it's time to get them looking fine through the burnishing process. 

How to Use Edge Paint

“If you can paint a wall, you can use edge paint.”
— Unknown

Sure, it’s a little more complicated than that, but it’s pretty much the same concept. Edge painting is actually much easier than most people think.

I know you’re eager, but before we jump into the ‘how to’ part of this blog post, I just want to take a moment to talk about why edge paint is as popular as it is, because when I first heard about it my response was: “I will never use that &@#$.” And now, well, I use it.

WHY: EDGE PAINT

Any leather item you make really should have a finished edge of some sort. Turned, burnished, painted, whatever it is, finishing your edges will drastically improve the quality of your work. As I mentioned, when I first heard about edge paint, I really had no intention of using it. Unlike burnishing, which is a process that effects the leather itself (you can read more about that here), edge paint is something that you add to the edge of the leather and then build up by applying multiple layers… just like painting a wall. My logic was, “Why would I finish my edges with something that can peel off, when I could just burnish them.” But, as it turns out, whether or not to use edge point has more to do with the leather you are working with. It’s a situational kind of thing. I’ve been using edge paint for awhile now and I’ve yet to see it peel (although it may over a long period of time, but the effects of burnishing go away with wear as well). Edge paint is also associated with high quality or ‘fine leatherworking', because of the smooth consistent finish it gives.

When: Edge Paint

Like I said, using edge paint is more of a situational decision. As I started working with more kinds of leathers, I realized not all leathers burnish well. Leathers that are thin, supple, and pliable, generally do not burnish well. If the edges happen to be firm enough to create the friction you need to burnish, often those edges will get mashed, especially when using a wooden burnisher. Or, as is usually the case, the edges aren’t firm enough for that to happen. In situations where the edge needs to be exposed, but the leather is too soft to burnish, it’s a really good idea to use edge paint, because with out it, there’s really no good way to get an edge with a consistent finish.

How: Edge Paint

If you’ve burnished an edge before and you’re thinking, ‘I’ll just finish an edge like I normally do, and use edge paint when I normally dye the edge,” don’t think that! Edge painting and burnishing are completely different processes, so it’s best if you forget about burnishing for the time being. 

Temporary memory loss applied, let’s begin.

This is a watch strap I was working on. In this picture I've glued both pieces together and evened out the edges with a knife.

1. After you’ve glued your leather together, even out your edges with a knife. I’ll usually just run a knife straight down the edge, blade flat against it. If you have it angled, just be careful that the knife doesn’t bury and cut deeper into the leather than you planned.

Make sure to get your edges as flat as possible in this step, because it’s the last time you’ll be shaping the leather. This is one of the major differences with burnishing, there is no sanding the leather to even out edges.

First coat of paint applied... just waiting awhile for it to dry.

First coat of paint applied... just waiting awhile for it to dry.

 It’s okay to sand edges when burnishing because you will also bevel your edges with an edge beveler. When you sand, the gain (topside) of the leather with start to fold over, and beveling removes that folded over part. But, when you’re working with thin leathers, you generally can’t bevel. There’s not enough leather to bevel, you’ll just cut the entire way through it. Long story short, don’t sand, don’t bevel, just even out the edges with a knife.

First coat once it has dried. You can see the fibers and uneven parts through the layer of paint.

2. After you’ve done that, apply the edge paint to the edge. Applying edge paint can be a little tricky because you absolutely have to keep it on the edge. If it spills over the edge, unto the leather, it will stain the leather. For that reason I use this tool. Make sure to apply a nice even and smooth coat. If you see the paint has pooled in one area, make sure to spread it out.

3. Allow 10 minutes (at least) for the paint to dry. Depending on the paint your using, it may be longer. You can generally tell by looking, but don’t rush this part because it will ruin your edges if you move on before allowing it to dry. As an impatient person, I’m talking from experience.

4. Next is where sanding comes in. Like I said, at this point, there is no more shaping of the leather itself, so you’ll only be sanding the layer of paint you’ve applied. Hit it lightly with 800 grit sand paper. This is just to help the second layer you are about to apply adhere to the previous layer.

This is my first two layers just after sanding. You can see a few inconsistencies. The one in the middle and the one on the right were caused by not waiting long enough for the paint to dry. The one on the left however, was from not enough paint. I should've applied another coat and evened it out again, but I did not and you will see the mistake in my final product.

5. After you’ve applied a second layer and allowed it to dry it’s time to sand again, but this time with a different purpose. This, in my opinion, is the most important step in getting nice edges using edge paint. If you look at your edge up to this point, you’ll still see the imperfections that were in the edge of the leather in the edge paint (i.e. the crease where the two pieces of leather meet, loose grain, etc.). Now’s the time to get rid of those, otherwise it’s going to take an absurd amount of coats until it smooths out. I hit the edges with 600 grit sand paper, and sand the paint until it is flat and all the previous mentioned imperfections can no longer be seen. Again, you’re not sanding until you hit the leather, you’re just sanding the paint you’ve built up to even it off.

This is the final product after a few final coats, hitting lightly with 800 grit sandpaper, and then buffing with a piece of canvas. As I mentioned earlier, you can see my mistake on the very end, but other than that I'm pretty happy with how it turned out.

6. Finally, I will usually do 2-3 more coats depending on how much I had to sand off. I make sure to add enough until the edge looks rounded instead of flat. After the final coat is done drying, I'll hit it lightly with 800 grit sand paper, and then buff it with a piece of canvas. 

What: Edge Paint

The edge paint I use is called Vernis Edge Paint.

Who: Edge Paint

So, I really want to see what your projects look like finished with edge paint. If you’d like to share what your working on please follow me on Instagram @goldbarkleather, and tag your photo with #goldbarkbrag. That way, I get to see what you’re making, and I’ll feature it if it’s some of the best of your work!

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