How to Use a Skiver

Imagine skiving is that evil predator seal and I am poor hapless Buster Blooth. And imagine the sheer horror of attempting to escape an overbearing mother, only to be apprehended by this hand eating seal. That feeling of dread, is the dread that fills my heart when I know I have to skive something. Sure it's a little dramatic, but skiving and I really did start off on the wrong foot.

The first time I attempted to skive anything was on my second project, which was a purse I made for my wife. I've referenced this purse before in a post about rivets, so I won't say much about it, other than I made it with the first piece of leather I ever bought, which was a really rough 8oz piece of veg tan. Really stiff 8oz leather may be great for, say a belt, but horrible for a purse. So instead of buying an entire new piece of leather I thought I’d be clever and skive the entire thing.

I was not clever.

What resulted was about six to eight hours of extreme frustration while I tried to skive all of this 8oz leather down to about 5oz. And I tried really hard to keep it all smooth, but it ended up extremely pitted. To make matters worse, I was using a super skiver (which I didn’t even really know what that was at the time) and started to rush towards the end as I got more and more impatient. That, of course, only resulted in me cutting a hole completely through a few pieces of leather and having to start all over again.

Long story short, it was a horrible mess, and I still have some angst towards skiving.

I had no idea what I was doing. Super skivers aren’t meant to be used that way. Normal skivers aren’t supposed to be used that way either. What I really needed was a splitter.

So, here’s some things I’ve learned along the way about skivers that I wish I would’ve know prior to making that purse.

Skiver vs. SUPER Skiver vs. Splitter:

It helps to think of these three tools as different versions of one another. They all do the same thing, but to a different capacity.

Skiver-01.png

This is the smallest, and it's for reducing the thickness of leather in small areas. It’s most common function is skiving edges, which will make an edge less bulky. This is normally desirable if you have two pieces of leather stacked on top of each other. Think of a wallet that can hold multiple cards. Each card is held in place by a different piece of leather, yet the edge is all a uniform thickness and not extremely bulky. This was achieved by reducing the edge's thickness by means of a skiver.

This pretty much works like a skiver, just more so. The depth and width of your cuts are amplified… and so are your mistakes. I actually find the super skiver to be a lot less of a controlled process than the normal skiver. I would not recommend using a super skiver on leather that wasn’t at least 8oz thick. It would cut all the way through on thin leathers like 3oz, and even on something like 6oz leather, I think it’s too easy to make mistakes. Where the super skivers really shines, however, is with belts. Most people, myself included, skive the ends of their belts that fold over, around the buckle. This prevents the belt from being to bulky. It’s really nice to be able to skive that quickly with the super skiver. It usually only takes two or three passes with a super skiver as opposed to the eight to ten it would probably take with a normal skiver.

 

Splitter:

If we are sticking to this super thing, its basically like a super super skiver… but it does work a bit differently. The blades of skivers and super skivers are bowed in the middle, which means your cut is going to be made across the middle of your blade. A splitter blade is flat and cuts across the entire blade. Splitters reduce the thickness of the entire piece of leather, instead of just parts of it. This is what I had hoped to do with the purse: take all the 8oz leather and make it 5oz. I don’t currently own one of these because they will cost you a bit of money, but it would definitely be nice to own a splitter one day.

 

Tips for a Skiver:

1. Using a skiver doesn’t take much force, so you can hold the leather still as you skive it with just a few fingers. This is great because it lets you skive using both hands, which gives you a lot more control.

2. Additionally, skivers can get kind of stuck in the leather as you use it. Usually this happens when you accidentally bury it too deep in the leather. There are two things you can do when this happens. Take the skiver out and skive the other direction. Or continue to pull, but pull up as you do it. If you decide to continue the skive and pull up, which is what I prefer, having both hands to gently rock it back and for while tilting it upwards really helps to smooth out the mistake.

A Skived Edge

3. When skiving an edge, always have your skiver at an angle. Rest the back end of the skiver on the table and angle the blade, so that the middle of the blade is on the edge of the leather. Resting the back part of the skiver on the table as you skive will help you maintain a consistent angle.

 

 

Tips When Using a Super Skiver:

Take these tips with a grain of salt because, as I have already mentioned, my skill with a super skiver is not… super.

1. I’ve noticed that the super skiver has a natural tendency to want to bury itself in the leather. I will pull down into the leather as I attempt to sink the skiver to the depth that I need it, but then pull the skiver up and towards me about 15% to fight against it sinking further.

2. To get a flat surface, know that you are going to have to overlap your cuts. As mentioned earlier the blade is curved, with the lowest point in the middle. If you are trying to skive more than just an edge you will have to over lap your cuts about 1/3 on either side to get a nice flat surface.

3. Clean out your blade. Skivers in general, but especially super skivers, tend to get bits of leather stuck between the blade and the tool. This makes the cuts much worse for two reasons. First they won’t be as even or smooth. And second, it pushes the blade further away from the tool making your cuts deeper than normal.

4. Finally make sure to sharpen and replace your blades. If I'm being thrifty, I will sometimes take the blade out and strop it. This keeps it sharp for awhile, but if I am still having problems after stropping it, I just replace the blade. The replacement blades are much cheaper than the leather you’re about to make a mistake on, so don’t be afraid to throw them out and replace them. Do be careful when replacing them though. Sometimes the replacement blades aren’t consistently sharp. If this is the case I’ll throw that one out until I find a good one.

All in all, I really prefer the normal skiver to the super skiver. I find that it can accomplish the same thing, in about the same amount of time, with a lot more control, and that control is really what is most important to me. 

I’m really hoping these tips keep you from being traumatized like I have been. Let me know if you have a skiving tip I left out, or an Arrested Development gif you can somehow relate to leatherworking. Here’s to a brighter skiving future.

An Odyssey of Patience

Below is a blog post written by Neil Ghosh of Whiskey Straps. Neil is one of the many great people I've met through the leather craft subreddit. If you haven't been over there yet, seriously go check it out. The community is extremely helpful and supportive. One of the things that I really appreciate about Neil is how thoughtful he is. It comes through in the way he treats people on reddit. It showed during our conversations planning this post. And it definitely shows in his work. Neil's not even a year into leatherworking and I think the extreme thoughtfulness he gives his work is what makes it stand out even early on. Check out what he has to say:

One of the most important activities in a person’s life is creating something.

Not everyone considers themselves a “creative” per se, but as children, we all played pretend and built legos, and used our imaginations to create new worlds and characters. Creating something novel is a deeply intrinsically fulfilling process. 

For many years music was my creative outlet, but in the recent years I have been steeped in the responsibilities of adulthood and have not had performing to give me that outlet so I needed a new craft to devote myself to learning.

I discovered leather as a medium about a year ago. Leather is a very unique medium of expression since there are so many facets and qualities to it; the smell, the feel and temper, the depth of color and pullup, the story of both the animal’s life and scars, marks, and imperfections, as well as the story of the item’s owner and the contributions and creases of use and wear. No other type of item in a person’s life has this same type of emotional connection and storytelling ability – one does not grow attached to a pair of socks or a hat the way they become deeply fond of a handmade wallet or a great pair of leather boots. 

But despite the fulfillment one gets from creating things using this once-living medium, there are early frustrations that can easily derail the passion from really developing. When I first started working with leather, I was, as most are, somewhat averse to the cost of materials and tools. “After all”, I reasoned, “how much difference can a rotary cutter make vs a utility knife? Why would I pay $30 for a Bob Douglas awl blade when Tandy has them for $5? Why in the world are head knives so expensive?” The truth is, the “buy nice or buy twice” rule isn’t the easiest to follow when “buying nice” can mean a several hundred dollar difference in start-up costs. 

My first set of tools purchased:

Neil's First Project

Neil's First Project

  • A Stanley Utility knife
  • An exacto knife
  • A pair of kitchen scissors
  • A couple harness needles
  • A spool of Speedy Stitcher waxed thread 
  • A round scratch awl
  • A Tandy thonging chisel set
  • A bottle of black edge-kote
  • Some chrome-tanned garment leather scraps

I’m cringing just making this list. 

My first project was a watch strap. As you can see, my lines were far from straight since they were cut with scissors, the edges could not be finished as they were chrome-tanned and too soft to bevel or burnish. Stitching was minimal, and I had no idea what a saddle-stitch was. In addition, the thread I was using was intended for use with a stitching awl, which I did not have, and the thonging chisel I was using was meant for lacing edges, not saddle-stitching. 

It helps to know what your target items are early on, spending time learning what the different types of leather are, and what type of aesthetic you want to go for can really help choosing the right tools the first time. There are already good resources on the basic tools to buy and what types of leather to use for a given project, but what then? Let’s assume you have purchased the correct basic set of tools – what next?

More Recent Work.

More Recent Work.

I have always been a big believer in the idea that inexperience is a poor excuse for bad quality. I really believe in learning something right the first time, and cutting down that learning curve. My thought process was, if I start with the best materials, then that variable is taken out of the equation and I only need to focus on technique.  So I bought some Horween Chromexcel scraps and Ritza tiger thread, both considered premium materials and commonly used for handmade items. At that point I was able to more specifically focus on my shortcomings or the shortcomings of specific tools, rather than worry that maybe the material was the problem (like it was with the chrome-tanned pieces). 

I gradually solved one issue at a time – cutting straight lines, marking stitch lines, stitching straight lines, making sure my backside stitching was lining up, getting edges nicely sanded and rounded, trying various burnishing methods and finishers – until finally my end product was really starting to improve. Today I feel confident enough in my technique that I could employ it even on lower quality materials and get satisfactory results. 

Here is one of my more recent projects: a combination journal and address book. On this project you can see that my preferred aesthetic is a clean, luxury look. I don’t personally do a lot of tooling, though I am dabbling in dyes next to create some custom colors. My stitching is probably where I feel my technique is strongest, getting consistent slanted saddle-stitch both front and back. My edges are improving but I do feel I have just about hit the wall on natural finished edges; I will likely start playing around with edge paints to really achieve the polished edge look I am going for. 

The bottom line is this: good things take time and practice. But practice alone does not make perfect - it makes permanent. To really improve you have to look at the flaws in each project and think about how to improve upon it for next time. By taking this critical thinking approach, you can ensure that your money is spent on the right tools, and your time is spent working on the right techniques to keep your projects moving forward and your sense of accomplishment high. Also, don’t be afraid to work outside your comfort zone, you may be surprised what type of projects you are able to create if you take your time and plan, and give it a solid shot. 

“I have always been a big believer in the idea that inexperience is a poor excuse for bad quality.”
— Neil Ghosh of Whiskey Straps

It's Justin again. I want to bring attention to this quote from Neil that I really sums up why this article is so great. In it, he highlights two of the most important things to learning leather working quickly and learning it well: challenge and review. A lot of big projects seem scary, but the best way to learn is by just trying to make them. If you have something you've been dreaming of making, go make it. But don't go into it haphazardly. Like Neil suggests, really put thought into how you make it and do your research. Don't dream big only with the overall project, but dream big with the excellence of your details. If you do this, you too can have achieve this kind of quality of work.

If you haven't already, you absolutely need to check out more of Neil's great work at his website: http://www.whiskeystraps.com

Thanks for reading guys, and if you would like to write a guest post, or have your work featured don't be afraid to ask. Just contact me.

Cutting Corners

This title is literal.

Corners are some of the most difficult cuts you’ll make in leatherworking, both rounded and sharp. One problem that I had early on is that I would cut my corners at the same speed and with the same presence of mind that I gave my straight cuts. The bad part is, I needed to be giving my straight cuts more than I was giving them... so you can imagine how bad my corners looked. I’ve since slowed down, and have really given some thought to how I’m making my cuts. Hopefully checking out a few of the methods and tricks people use to cut corners, will help you make that transition from rushing to giving all your details attention.

 

Method One: Cutting a Sharp Corner

This is the easiest corner to cut. And you could just use a ruler and make the cut with a rotary cutter. Your corner will look good doing this, but you’ll inevitably cut past where the corner ends and into the rest of your leather. When you’re using inexpensive leathers this may not seem like a big deal, but it’s better to learn how to do this prior to switching to more expensive leathers than while you’re making the transition. To make sure your cut ends right at the corner, set the point of your blade (either head/round knife or x-acto knife) in the corner. Then, lay your ruler along one of the lines and make your cut. Once you’ve completed that cut, go back and again set the point of your blade on the corner. Now set down your ruler along the other line and make that cut.

First mark out your corner (click to enlarge).

Set the point of your blade in the corner (click to enlarge).

Line up your ruler and make the cut (click to enlarge).

 

Method Two: Washer CorneRS

Washers are cheap, available in many sizes, and are (obviously) round. All this makes them great guides for cutting rounded corners. My one suggestion for this is not to use an expensive knife while doing it, and instead use something disposable, like an x-acto, to make the cut. This way you avoid nicking and damaging good knives. To do this, I usually cut out the piece of leather using the previous method, leaving the corner sharp. Then, I set the wash in the corner. If you notice in the picture, I leave a very small space between the edge and the washer to leave room for the blade. From my experience, if you put the washer right on the edge, the cut will look a little jagged where the curve meets the straight line. Once you’ve set the washer in the correct spot, press down and make your cut, pulling into the washer to keep the blade from drifting. I really love the results I get using this method. As you can see from the picture, the curve turns out very smooth.

I usually cut out a piece with a 90 degree corner. Then I place the washer. Notice the small gap (click to enlarge).

Press down and make the cut (click to enlarge).

This is the result (click to enlarge).

 

Method Three: Free Hand

This is, with out a doubt, the hardest way to do it, but it’s not a bad skill to develop. To do this, place your left hand (assuming your cutting with the right) inside the curve. Place your blade at the end of the curve closest to you. Then, while slowly pushing your blade forward, rotate your left hand to slowly move the leather. The trick is making sure both motions are smooth and uninterrupted. It’s definitely hard to do and I’m still on the early stages of learning this one.

Mark out your curve (click to enlarge).

Slowly push the blade forward while rotating the leather with your left hand (click to enlarge).

Not the best corner, but it's getting there (click to enlarge).

Method Four: Curve by 1000 Cuts

The last, and most popular way is to take a blade (usually I see rotary cutters, and I do think they work best for this method) and make many straight cuts along the curve. The trick to this is to make sure not to cut too much at once. It’s a lot of little straight cuts that will make a curve, not three or four. Make sure to keep your blade perpendicular to the leather, otherwise you may accidentally tilt the blade inward while making the cuts. This is a really easy mistake to make. When this happens, the top side of the leather will look good, but because you cut at an angle, the bottom will not be the same shape. If you make this mistake, you can always go back with the rotary cutter and clean it up by repeating this method.

Cut out the piece of leather and leave the corner on (click to enlarge).

Then make cuts along the curve like the ones marked here (click to enlarge).

This is how the edges turned out. A little jagged, but round. Sanding will smooth this out (click to enlarge)

Here are the three methods side by side. The left is the multiple cuts, the middle is free hand, and the right was made using the washer. For me, the washer edge turned out the best (click to enlarge).

Don’t Forget to Sand

All edges should be sanded anyway during the burnishing process, but it helps to sand right after cutting a curve. This way, when you go to glue to pieces of together, the edges will be similar and only need a little more sanding. I sand curves by pulling 150 grit sandpaper around the curve in one direction only. With a grit that low, it doesn’t take long get them smoothed out.

Slowing down and really giving attention to every detail is what makes a project great. So here’s to developing skills and thoughtfulness at the most basic levels of leatherworking.

And as always if you have another method, or questions for me, please contact me. I’ve had some great conversations with people who have reached out so far!

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Making Your Stitching Holes Perfect

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I’ve mentioned this before, but using diamond chisels will make a huge difference in your stitching early on.

They create consistent, accurate, and evenly spaced/sized holes. When learning, this is great because it puts all the attention on your stitching, not the holes. If you’re not happy with your how your stitching looks after using a chisel, you know it has something to do with the way you’re stitching and you can focus in on that. When trying both at the same time, it’s hard to know what is at fault because there are too many variables.

And even though diamond chisels make such great stitching lines, there are still are few circumstances where it is easy to mess them up. Unfortunately, with the great accuracy chisels offer, when you make these mistakes they stick out pretty noticeably, so here are a few tips to make sure your entire stitching line looks perfect.

I'll use this piece of scrap leather, that I've already created a stitching channel on, to help explain these three problems.

The most common places you will run into a problem is when starting your stitching line, creating holes approaching a sharp corner, and creating holes when going around a curve.

 

How to Start your Stitching Line

Generally, knowing where to start your stitching line is pretty simple. In some projects however, you want the stitching to go over the edge to prevent two pieces of leather from coming apart at a seam. Sometimes you can start the stitch too far away from the edge or too close, creating an uniform look when compared to the rest of the stitching. To fix this problem, you need to find where to place the first hole. To do this, set the diamond chisel in the channel you’ve already created with your groover, leaving the last tooth on the chisel just over the edge. Notice where the second tooth rests in the channel, now move the first tooth to this point. You've found your starting point.
 

Place the first tooth over the edge to find out where to start your stitching holes. (click to enlarge)

Move the first tooth over to where the second tooth was. This is where you want to start. (click to enlarge)

How to Create Stitching Holes Approaching a Sharp Corner

You always want the the stitching hole to rest in the corner of a 90 degree turn. If you do not do this, your thread will not follow the shape of your edges. But sometimes, when approaching a corner you realize that the natural spacing of your chisel is not going to create a hole that sits in that corner. So you have to adjust the spacing while still making it look natural. To do this, punch within three or four holes of the corner and then punch a hole at the corner. Using chisels with different amount of teeth, find out how many holes is too many. Then using a chisel with only one tooth, evenly space out the number of holes that is one less than what you decided was too many (i.e. if four was too many, create three holes) between the last hole you made and the hole at the corner.

Stop creating stitching holes before you reach the corner. Then put a hole in the corner. (click to enlarge)

Determine how many holes is too many by using chisels with different amounts of teeth. In this case 3 is too many. (click to enlarge)

Place the appropriate amount of holes in the space you've left (one less than what you decided was too many). I only created 2 in this case. (click to enlarge)

How to Create Stitching Holes Around a Curve

Punch holes along your stitching line until your chisel no longer rest within the stitching groove as you approach the curve. At this point, switch to a chisel with only two teeth. Setting one tooth in the last stitching hole you made, place the stitching groove as it follows the curve of the edge. Instead of using a hammer to create a hole at this point, press down to leave only an impression. Continue this process until you’ve go all the way around the edge. Then go back and create the hole using a chisel with only one tooth, keeping the top and the bottom of the diamond shape in line with the edges of the groove.

Stop creating stitching holes before you hit the curve. (click to enlarge)

Use a chisel with two teeth to mark out the distance between holes without actually creating them. (click to enlarge)

Come back with a one tooth chisel to make the holes making sure the top and bottom of the diamond match the edges of the stitching channel. (click to enlarge)

Most of these holes have not been punched through to their entirety. The three highlighted holes have been, and the difference is noticeable. (click to enlarge)

An Extra Tip for Perfecting Your Stitching Line

Sometimes I notice that the front of my stitching looks angled, just like it should be, but the back side looks flat, like a machine stitch. And if I'm going to spend all that time hand stitching, I want people to know. One cause of this can be the way that you are using your chisel. Often times I will fail to punch my chisel far enough through the leather. If you take a look at your chisel you can see where the blade of the chisel gradually turns into the diamond shape. It is not until that diamond shape is past the other side of the leather that the hole has been properly created. If you don’t push the chisel far enough through, the holes will look more like slits and less like diamonds. You can see the difference in the picture.

 

Working around curves, approaching a corner well, punching your chisel all the way through the leather, and starting your stitching lines right, should all go a long way in improving the overall look of your stitching lines. As always, I’m still learning and I know there are many other tips out there for making your stitching even better. If you have your own tip and want to help everyone who is part of this community get better, I invite you to put it in the comments below. I’d really love to hear from you. 

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